Jump to the lands or touch the lands

[White Oak 06]

What is best with these seating depths ?

[gtk]

Rifles are differetn.. My ruger 300 wsm needs to be just a thousanths or so off the lands.. my 270 is further off.. its something you will just have to test with your rifle, or do like I did, research what others who are shooting the same kind/caliber/make of rifle, & see what theirs like best..

[White Oak 06]

10 4 ,
How is powder and accuracy fit together and primers
I researched the imr4046 and it seems to be a versitile powder that's considered a magnum powder.
I have noticed a difference in recoil compared to the ammo that shoots good and not so good , is this a powder thing ?

The good stuff shoots smooth !
or I'm I imagining things !

[jbullard1]

I use IMR 4064 in my 30-06 bullet seated .050 from lands

[stickers]

Every gun is different as far as COAL goes.

The gun itself is the most important part of accuracy followed by the bullet.

The first powder I would buy would be either one of the 4350s. I know people who use this solely for multitude of calibers.

I probably have 30 different caliber rifles I handload for and use either of the 4350s or Re15 for 80% of them. Even though I have multitudes of powders(and have tried a bunch).

Keep it simple at first.

[erle]

Notice this post was last month, but you might still be interested.

Powder is rated according to it's burning rate & IMR 4064 is considered a medium/fast burning powder, which is good for lighter bullets (150 gr & less in 30.06). It's not slow enough to really be considered a magnum powder. I used it in reloading 75 grain bullets in my .243, when shooting groundhogs in Kentucky.

IMR 4350 is more of a fast burning powder for heavier bullets (165 grain or more in 30.06). I have used the slower burning IMR 4350 in my 30.06 165 grain bullets for years & get excellent results in velocity & accuracy.

Remember there is IMR 4350 & Hodgdon 4350 & they do not use the same load data! I have also used the even slower burning H4831 but get better results on my chronograph with IMR 4350 (30.06). Rifles & cartridges are different & I get better results with H4831 in my .270 reloading 130 grain bullets.

It's a lot of fun!

[White Oak 06]

Thanks for the info !
I bought a speer and nosler manual , in the speer , they test in 22" barrels , is this a concern when I start at the minimum with a 24" barrel ?

[erle]

Not really. 2" is not going to make that much of a difference.

You have good manuals. I have used Speer for years & added the Nosler & Hornady recently.

I always begin with a moderate load & work up, checking for primer flatness & case bulge on fired rounds, especially before I got the Chronograph. I have found my most accurate loads to be several grains below the maximum in just about every caliber. Makes cases & rifle barrels last longer too!

[White Oak 06]

Thanks , how close were you to their published data in velocity with your 3006 ?

I'm not reloading yet , I'm doing a lot of studying.

When you run out of supplies like powder , brass and bullets , does this mean you have to start from ground zero and work back up ?

[erle]

My velocities have run pretty close to the same as published velocities for the grains used. Manuals max out because of excessive pressure & is one reason I stay short of their very maximum.

The only time you have to start over is if you change to some other type of component completely. Like in 30.06, I generally stay with the same type powder & primers. If I change the bullet I try to stay with the same weight & sometimes touch the load up/down a little for better accuracy. One pound of powder will last a hunter a long time. The next pound you buy will be a different lot number but I've not noticed any difference through the years.

Some reloaders use only one brand of brass, but I have always used mixed since I try to pick up range brass. I get very good accuracy for hunting & do not shoot in any matches or competitions. During this shortage craze I have had to purchase some pistol brass & bought once-fired. It is much cheaper than new.

Last year I reloaded for a friend who shoots .300 Win Mag & had to purchase some new brass. Boy! Glad I don't have to do that often.

[White Oak 06]

Thanks Erle, do you hunt deer with your loads and what bullets do you use ?

What are some of your yardage ?
What kind of exits and blood trails ?

Sorry for the detailed questions , everybody seems to be hung up on speed or trying to match factory velocities .

I'm beginning to think modest speeds do better in bullet performance !

[White Oak 06]

When you say you begin with moderate loads ,are you starting in the middle ?
Well Nosler gives three , speer and Lyman give two .

[erle]

Thought I sent a post last night. Don't know what happened to that post.

I deer hunt now a lot with my 3 Grandsons. Back when we did a lot of woods hunting & ran with dogs, I reloaded 30.06 with 180gr, either core-loc or nosler partition. When began hunting over food plots I switched to 165gr Nosler partition. Shots are usually 100yds or less & I can usually get a good neck shot & they drop right there. Many new bullets are available today but you can't beat the Nosler partition.

Loaded some this past year with Barnes TTSX & Grandson made a 250yd shot. Broke both front shoulders (in one & lodged in other). That deer still ran about 50yds before it fell dead. Good thing because no exit & very little blood trail.

For years I always started with the low recommended load & worked up. After years of doing this, I noticed that whatever the caliber, bullet or powder used, I always ended up somewhere just a little lower that the highest load recommendation. So, I started beginning somewhere in the middle & worked up. Saved me a lot of time since I use standard rifles & calibers.

When I got the Chronograph I noticed that my trusted loads were always short of the maximum velocity. That's OK with me because I had them loaded for the best accuracy in my rifles (glass bedded actions & free-floated barrels). Don't think it's going to make much difference to the deer if you hit him with 2700fps or 2800fps! Main thing is to hit him in a vital spot.

[White Oak 06]

Thanks Erle,
Are your hand loads for cold temps ?

The further a bullet is seated , will there be more pressure ?

[jv]

Don't think it's going to make much difference to the deer if you hit him with 2700fps or 2800fps! Main thing is to hit him in a vital spot.

That right there is about the most truefull statements made.

[erle]

I never have paid much attention to temp since here in Miss. we don't have that extreme cold.

Since most of my reloads will be shot in several guns, I seat most bullets to the recommended oal The only cartridge I seat the bullet just off the lands on is my personal .270. I understand that if touching the lands you might get a little higher initial pressure. I have not noticed any increased pressure seating just short of the lands.

I would recommend starting off seating to the recommended o.a.l. I also suggest just a slight crimp. I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die. Know some who never crimp & don't seem to have any problems. I just feel better with a slight crimp. Too much crimp WILL increase pressure.

[White Oak 06]

Thanks again Erle for sharing your knowledge of reloading and to everyone else on this forum.
One last question until I get my hands in it.
What are your groups at 100 yards and since your velocities are under factory and published data , is the recoil a little milder ?
I have only shot 150 gr through my 3006 , it's around 8 + lbs, so it really ain't that bad to manage the recoil while staying on target with that velocity and lighter bullet.

[White Oak 06]

OK , one more question , have you used the chronograph on a factory load and what was the velocity ?
Thanks !!!!

[erle]

By tweaking & tuning, I get 1" groups at 100yds with all of my rifles except 1. That's my Sako .243 & I get 3/4" groups. Using a lead-sled eliminates felt recoil at the range & I never have noticed recoil when shooting at a deer.

I've reloaded so long I can't even remember when I shot any factory ammo. Only reloads through the chronograph.

Will be gone for next few days. Maybe you will have your equipment when I return.

[White Oak 06]

10-4 over and out !